And Where is Harmonie Today?

After a month at the dock In Glen Cove, New York working with another Amel owner to install a new C-drive in his boat, and do some other assorted repairs and upgrades, our time is our own for a while. This morning we headed out of the marina in Glen Cove, and moved about 25 miles east to Port Jefferson. A nice little tourist town and a harbor full of moorings available for $75/night, and that includes launch service from your mooring to downtown. From here, our plan is to jump to Cuttyhunk Island for a day or two, then up the Cape Cod Canal toward the coast of Maine with possible stops along the way.

The C-Drive Installation.

The Amel C-drive is a very reliable piece of machinery, but everything is subject to failures eventually. I have now replaced two of these and in both cases the cause for failure could not be clearly identified.

The gearboxes used in these units came from two different French manufacturers. There are external differences bewteen the two supplier’s units. I do not know i the internals are identical or not. Amel can supply a replacement of the entire drive system for about €32,000.

Amel has a contractor who installs the lower unit in a bespoke fiberglass housing, The problem is that these housings are not drop-in replacements. The housing as supplied today requires modification to fit. It has to be made larger in some areas, and smaller in others. I suspect that each boat model will require somewhat different tweaks to get the fit and alignment as perfect as it needs to be.

The overall process to install one of these is tiem consuming, fussy, and difficult. The modifications need to be done to a fairly high level of precision so the alignment comes out correctly. The engine then needs to be aligned with precision to the new drive system.

Moonrise in Port Jefferson Harbor.

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One for Our Record Book…

Having a close encounter with tropical storm Chantal wasn’t all bad. In her wake she left a strong and steady southeasterly flow of wind in the mid 20’s across the ocean This was exactly what we needed to make good time north to New York.

For a couple of years now, we have been using Saillogger as our online tracking tool. It’s a bit geeky to set up, but many boats have the hardware already in place, so it’s an inexpensive install compared to some alternatives. If you’re interested, drop me a line, and I can discuss further. One of the features is a daily email while you are underway that gives you your statistics for the last 24 hours.

For most medium-sized cruising boats, a 24-hour run of 140 to 150 miles is about average. Everybody likes to think their boat can go faster, but we tend to remember the fast days and dismiss the slow ones. The “magic number” that everybody hopes to get to is a 24-hour run of 200 miles. Two-hundred-mile days are rare but not unheard of aboard Harmonie. Our first day out of Fort Lauderdale, we did 211.

But yesterday….

We have never had a 250-mile day, so covering 264 miles in 24 hours is quite likely the fastest we will ever cover ground on this boat.

Of course, we could never cover ground that fast without the help of the Gulf Stream pushing at speeds of 4 knots or more. Well, now it is time to step off that conveyor belt and head in toward NY Harbor. We will be arriving tomorrow in the afternoon and likely anchoring unless we are very lucky with our timing of the tides.

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Buddy Boating with Chantal

But let’s not do it again!

We were supposed to be well west of a small low pressure system, but instead, rapidly shifting forecasts left us in the middle of Tropical Storm Chantel.

Tropical Storm Chantal makes landfall behind Harmonie

Overall, it wasn’t terrible, but certainly wasn’t what we’d choose to do. Maximum winds we saw were 40, gusting to 45, and waves to about 12 feet. We plotted a course that had us sailing on a deep broad reach with only a highly reefed jib out. Sailing was fast, but well controlled. Occasionally smacked around by an errant wave.

The boat and her systems did fine. While it wasn’t comfortable, at no point did we feel we were in “survival conditions” either. We were hailed on the radio by a large cargo ship passing nearby checking if we were ok, or needed assistance. I can imagine we were the subject of a bridge discussion about crazy people on little boats.

Now (Afternoon, Sunday, July 6) we are back near the axis of the Gulf Stream off Cape Hatteras sailing in a comfortable 20 knots of SSE wind. With a current push of 3.5 knots, we have been occasionally breaking 12 knots over ground. The wind is forecast to lighten over then next two days, and we expect to arrive at the entrance to New York Harbor late Tuesday afternoon.

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Northbound

Yesterday morning we left from Hall of Fame Marina in Fort Lauderdale, filled our fuel tank, and jumped out onto the northbound conveyor belt that is the Gulf Stream.

Since departing, we have been running fast on a broad reach with steady winds of 12 to 20 knots. Combined with a current of 3 to 4 knots, we have been running 10 to 11 knots over the ground. The weather has been overcast with widely scattered showers.

There is the possibility of a low pressure system developing along our route, but so far it looks like that will have little impact on us.

Our target destination is the north shore of Long Island, New York. We’ll be working with another Amel owner to install a replacement C-drive in his Super Maramu, and then spending a few weeks there visiting and exploring. We expect a fast trip, with favorable winds almost all the way. Our routing program predicts our arrival on Wednesday, July 9th.

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Sometimes They DO Make Them Like They Used To…

Tied up in the tiny harbor basin in Matthewtown, Inagua was this wooden hulled sailboat, with an interesting story. It comes here from Haiti to trade. I am guessing it is not at all an accident that they are here while the store’s shelves are bare several weeks after a supply boat run. They bring bananas and mangoes from Haiti and sell them here.

According to the locals there are only four mango tres on the island, and none of them are reliable fruiters, so the market is here for the tasty tropical fruit.

The boat appears to be well cared for, but in a very rustic way. Looking closer at the rigging, we see that the mast and other spars are, well, sticks fresh from the tree. The bark stripped off, a coat of paint applied, and off they go… The boat’s bilge pump is made of wood, and worked by pulling on a rope.

It’s rough and tumble way of making a few honest dollars, but these days a few dollars probably goes a long way in Haiti.

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866 miles later…

Last night we dropped anchor off Matthewtown on Great Inagua Island. These days this is the port of entry for the Bahamas that is farthest east and south, so the most convenient for boat traveling in the direction we are. The over all trip was 866 miles, over 5-1/2 days. An average speed of 6.6 knots. No engine use at all except for anchor maneuvering at the beginning and end.

Overall the trip was easy and smooth. Winds were favorable, so much so we spent almost two days with the twin-headsail downwind rig up. The highlight of the trip was having a 10lb blackfin tuna accept our invitation to dinner.

The freshest sushi that can be had…

Karen has checked us into the Bahamas at the local customs office. She and Keven then walked down to the general store and found the shelves totally bare. Apparently the last supply boat was here two weeks ago, and the next one is not due until Saturday. We’ll be digging into the frozen and canned stock for our veggies for the next two weeks.

Our plan for tomorrow is to start an 18 hour sail to West Plana Cay, one of our favorite uninhabited islands. We’ll explore, fish, and comb the beaches for treasure, for a week(?) then head to Fort Lauderdale where we’ll take care of some doctor appointments, and we also say goodbye to Kevan who has been a great crew for this whole trip. Splitting watches 3 ways instead of two makes passages a lot easier! He will be missed.

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And Martinique is Behind Us.

This morning we pulled anchor from the Sainte Anne anchorage in southwestern Martinique, and set sail. As always, you can find our track and status here:

https://saillogger.com/svharmonie

For most of the two months we’re were at the dock in Martinique I was traveling on one business project or another while Karen stayed put working as Project Manager for various repair and upgrade projects on Harmonie.

Our target destination is Great Inagua in the Bahamas. The first of the Bahamian islands with a port of entry where we can check in. We are about 5 days out from there. We hope to spend a week or two exploring, beach-combing, and fishing in the Bahamas before heading further north to the next project.

This will be an easier trip than most. For the first time in ages we have crew aboard to help with our watch schedule. Kevan has sailed with us before, and we all expect things to go easier with ta 4 on/8 off schedule compared to the 4 on/4 off that Karen and I are used to!

Our first day at sea has been uneventful. We have been treated to two brown boobies using the boat to help them catch fish.

Brown boobie on the wing

They soar around the boat waiting for a school of flying fish to scatter from the hull, and they are on them in a flash grabbing them just after they splash down.

Tomorrow afternoon we will come up on an open ocean weather buoy, where we hope to snag a tuna or two for the freezer.

Harmonie is performing well. It is good to be underway on our own boat.

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And Martinique is Behind Us.

This morning we pulled anchor from the Sainte Anne anchorage in southwestern Martinique, and set sail. As always, you can find our track and status here:

https://saillogger.com/svharmonie

For most of the two months we’re were at the dock in Martinique I was traveling on one business project or another while Karen stayed put working as Project Manager for various repair and upgrade projects on Harmonie.

Our target destination is Great Inagua in the Bahamas. The first of the Bahamian islands with a port of entry where we can check in. We are about 5 days out from there. We hope to spend a week or two exploring, beach-combing, and fishing in the Bahamas before heading further north to the next project.

This will be an easier trip than most. For the first time in ages we have crew aboard to help with our watch schedule. Kevan has sailed with us before, and we all expect things to go easier with ta 4 on/8 off schedule compared to the 4 on/4 off that Karen and I are used to!

Our first day at sea has been uneventful. We have been treated to two brown boobies using the boat to help them catch fish.

Brown boobie on the wing

They soar around the boat waiting for a school of flying fish to scatter from the hull, and they are on them in a flash grabbing them just after they splash down.

Tomorrow afternoon we will come up on an open ocean weather buoy, where we hope to snag a tuna or two for the freezer.

Harmonie is performing well. It is good to be underway on our own boat.

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Delivery report

The delivery of an Amel 54 across the Atlantic has been completed without incident. The boat has performed well, only minor issues. Weather was very cooperative. That makes be my first TransAtlantic trip.

We did pause at an open ocean weather buoy anchored in 13,000 feet of water to catch a tuna on a hand line for dinner. There were a lot of fish at the buoy, we could have filled a freezer if we wanted.

We arrived in Ponta Delgada, Azores after 16 days underway from Martinique. The town and island are beautiful, and well worth stopping for in their own right.

We spent two nights there to pick up fuel and fresh provisions, and were back back underway for about a week to our final destination of Vigo, Spain.

The rugged coastline of São Miguel, Azores.
Ponta Delgata, São Miguel, Azores

And the Finish

From Sao Miguel to Vigo, Spain was another 6 days. Winds were contrary, but light. We spent about 2.5 days motoring in the final approach to the coast.

Overall the trip was straightforward. We had no nasty weather, and no serious boat mechanical issues. We left Martinique on April 19, and arrived in Vigo on May 13, with a two day break in the Azores. That’s 22 days, a very fast trip.

Right now I am on my way back to Martinique, in what seems like a painfully long series of flights and layovers. 26 hours instead of 22 days!

And Next

While I have been off traveling for a month on other people’s boats Karen has been holding down the fort on Harmonie back in Le Marin. There have been a number of projects large and small she has been managing with the local shops. It looks like they will all be done either before I get back or within a few days of my return.

We are actually having crew join us in Martinique for our sail north. Kevan has sailed with us before, and we meant it when we said he’d always be welcome back. Our plan is to head to the Bahamas. Where we will explore some of our favorite spots, and then head further north.

A Super Maramu in waiting for me in New York to install a new C-drive that was damaged in a collision with floating debris. Hopefully we can get that done in a week, and then, again, be on our way for the rest of the summer.

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Where is Bill Now?

The past couple weeks have been a travel scramble as various customer projects have moved up to their place on the schedule.

Travels in the last month, and upcoming. Red paths complete.

A C-drive Install

After dashing south from Brunswick, GA, USA to Le Marin, Martinique, I quickly hopped on a plane back to the states. My destination was Annapolis, Maryland where I supervised the installation of a new C-drive into an Amel 55.

This was a large and complex project that took about a week. Several unexpected issues were encountered, but all were resolved, and the boat has been launched and test run successfully.

Trans Atlantic Delivery

As soon as I return to Karen and Harmonie back in Martinique, it’s time to jump on an Amel 54, and begin a delivery to Virgo, Spain. This is a long trip, about 25 days. We are just into our second 24 hours, and passing north of Guadeloupe.

Any voyage crossing the North Atlantic is a serious undertaking requiring the boat to be autonomous for about three weeks. This boat is well found, and the owner has done an excellent job chasing down issues.

Unusually, this delivery is being done with a total crew of four. A watch schedule of 4 on / 12 off seems a positive luxury.

The Home Front

Karen is on Harmonie in Marina du Marin organizing the projects we have running with the local mechanics. Almost as soon as I get back, we will need to be underway northbound away from the approaching summer hurricanes.

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