A Fishing Day

We have been hunkered down in “NoName Anchorage” on the southern end of Key Biscayne, near Miami. Originally to wait for weather to transit to the Bahamas, but then we got stuck a bit longer while we explored a business opportunity in Florida. That fell through, and now we are back on our sailing track, with some additions to the schedule.

Today we pulled anchor in the morning, and went out into the Gulf Stream to see if we could find some fish. I had what was likely a wahoo bite off my hook on our first stop, come up blank on our second, and then found a colony of black-bellied rosefish.

You are probably not familiar with the Black-bellied Rosefish. They are not a commercial species, and not widely know with sport fisherman. They are not sporting to catch. The size in the picture is typical. The world record is 5 pounds. They live at depths of 1000 feet. So who cares? And what’s the deal with the name “black-bellied”?

Well, the big deal is once you find them, you can catch all you want. Seriously, if you are not catching one on every hook you have on the bottom, you are not in a good spot. The only thing that limits the number you catch is you have to reel them up 1000 feet to the boat.

And more important, they are delicious. We simply air-fried a few fillets, and they are unlike any fish that we have eaten. My first adjective was “sweet” and Karen’s was “buttery”. They are small, but “chunky”. Three will feed two people.

OK, so what’s the deal with the name? They don’t have black bellies, or black anything…

Well, when you clean them, you find out the origin of the name. The membrane lining the abdominal cavity, which is white on every other fish I have ever cut open is white, on these fish is black. Not just dark gray, or deep blue, but a true deep jet, black.

Plans…

With the understanding that a cruising boat’s plans are “written in the sand at low tide” here is our coming schedule:

We have a delivery that is quickly approaching for a boat in Grenada that needs to move to Brunswick, Georgia. To accommodate that we will be sailing to Brunswick at the next weather window, probably near the end of this week. To move to Georgia, fly to Grenada, and then sail back to Georgia, will probably take the best part of 3 weeks.

We will then sail to the Bahamas, and south to the eastern Caribbean. I have a client back in the Chesapeake who I will help install a new drive train in his boat, and another who will need an alignment of a new engine installation in Martinique, and then a delivery from Martinique to Lisbon(!). Then it will be time to head north again.

All in all, it is kind of a crazy schedule for us laid-back cruiser types, but the pieces are falling together.

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We’re Sailing!

After almost 2 months of being at anchor or on the hard in the greater Fort Lauderdale area, this morning we left our anchorage in SouthLake, Hollywood, motored to the fuel dock in Dania Beach. We took on diesel, gasoline (for the dinghy) and water, and headed back out into the ocean. We tanked up everything we could because diesel at the dock on Florida is about $3.60. In the Bahamas it is over $6.00.

A perfectly reasonable question is why we spend so much time in, and around, Fort Lauderdale. The answer is best delivered by a picture. It’s not the most interesting photo you will ever see:

This large industrial building in Pompano, FL is FULL of nothing but bolts, nuts, screws, and related products. You walk in, hand the guy behind the counter a sample of what you need, and–like magic–more appear. No matter how odd, they can be replicated.

Now, by itself, this is not really magic. But this repeats over and over for every kind of boat part imaginable. No matter what you need for your boat you can get it in Fort Lauderdale, or have it made. Somebody here actually had an exhaust elbow for our Dutch made generator on the shelf. Surprising, and very helpful.

Well, almost everything.

Just before we are ready to leave, we sheared the valve stem on a critical part of our toilet plumbing. We have a European boat, with European parts. The only place I can find a replacement valve is from… Europe. Well, the UK actually, but close enough. While bemoaning this state of affairs to a friend on another Amel, he replies with, “We have four of those, if you need one…” So here we are at Key Biscayne with the part we need waiting for us to pick up.

We re now anchored outside of NoName Harbor on the southern end of Key Biscayne. This is the traditional place for many boats to wait for a favorable weather window to cross to the Bahamas. Which is what we are doing now.

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Happy Holidays Everybody!

Yesterday, we sprang ourselves out of the boatyard and made our way to the anchorage in South Lake in Hollywood, Florida. A world of palm trees, speedboats, and high-rise condos. The only white part of Christmas here is the sand on the beach!

We are probably here for two weeks or so while we clean the last of the accumulated boatyard dirt off the boat and finish off the last few things on our list. It is a convenient location with access to groceries and land-based stuff. The boat seems to be in good shape, as do we, and all are ready for further adventures.

Once done here, we will head off to the Bahamas for our slow and relaxing trip down the islands. We do not have our stops planned out ahead of time but ultimately will be landing in Martinique about April 1.

Our stay at the yard was efficient and uneventful. Playboy Marine has been a fixture in Dania Beach for many years and is one of the last of the yards that allow you to work on your own boat. Small and smoothly run, we were happy with our stay there. One of the few downsides is that the yard is right at the end of Runway 10R for the busy Fort Lauderdale Airport. The noise of departing jets is constant, as is the rain of dust from burning jet fuel added to the normal boatyard gunk.

The South Lake anchorage has changed quite a bit for the better in the last year or so. It had been slowly accumulating boats that were either derelict or close to it and was becoming clogged by boats with owners who could not afford to keep them in a marina, so used the lake as free storage for their poorly maintained boats. Florida has been slowly working through decades of neglected and abandoned boats in an effort to clean up the waterways. Overall, the program seems to be a benefit, at least here in Broward County. This afternoon, the Hollywood police boat cruised through the anchorage, touching base with the boats who arrived today, and—I assume—noting who was here and starting the clock on the 45-day limit for a stay.

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Forward, and back…

So many boat projects are two steps forward and one back. Today was definitely one of those steps back.

While the boat is on the hard is always a good chance to get hands and eyes into places you don’t always have time or access to. During our poking around, I found that the exhaust elbow on our generator was leaking salt water. Not a big deal. There is actually a local supplier here who keeps a good supply of WhisperPower spare parts, We gave them $400, they gave us a brand new exhaust elbow. My expectation was that I would have that installed in a an hour or two of work this morning, and then be off to other projects. Ha!

I was tightening the nuts to clamp it in place using my torque wrench because this is important to get right. I was coming up on the final last bit of turn when suddenly the nut got a lot easier to turn. That’s never good. Turns out I pulled the stud right out of the aluminum exhaust manifold. Argh…

It’s not too big a job to pull the manifold off this tiny little engine, so off it came. Since I have it in hand, I took it apart checking on things. It always kind of struck me as odd that this was assembled with multiple metals but no sacrificial zinc anode to protect them from corrosion. I put it down to some magical Dutch engineering at the manufacturer. Turns out I was wrong… There WAS a zinc. Normally these would be replaced every 6 months or so, but I had never done it because they never mentioned that it was there in the maintenance schedule.

After cleaning this up and making it all as good as can be, I basdically ended up at the end of the day, and I have a few more small parts and tools arriving on Monday that I need to finish it up. We’re scheduled to launch on Friday… Time to prioritize projects to be sure I get all the ones done that much be done before we go back in the water!

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Binocular Deal!

I don’t often make these kinds of time sensitive product recommendations, but here is one too good to passup! It is an Amazon Black Friday Deal, and the version without a compass is almost 50% off retail, and a price I have never seen anybody else come close to. I do not know how long these prices will last. Seriously, these are really good prices on a product that is not often discounted much, if at all.

If you need a pair of binoculars, this set is a great deal for a really awesome optic kit. I have a pair of Steiners, and I have had them for over 30 years. In that time, they have been back to the factory for repair under their lifetime warranty several times, and they look and work as good as new. These are WAY better than the cheap optics you will fond from mass market, and are the correct magnification and objective size for use from a rolling boat. They are sealed, and totally waterproof, and fog-proof. They do not float, so be careful with them!

They come in two versions, with, and without a bearing compass. I find the compass to be handy for a number of navigation techniques, and would recommend it, if you can afford the extra.

Steiner Navigator without Compass. $299!

Steiner Navigator with Compass $449

We also have a pair of Fuji Technostabil TS-X binoculars that Karen describes as her “best Christmas present ever.” They are very, very nice, but also about three times the price of the Steiners. They have a much higher magnification, that requires active stabilization to work at all on the deck of a moving boat. Unlike binoculars that are stabilized for hand held use on land, these have a full 6 degrees of active stabilization. They give crystal clear view even if the roughest seas. Even fantastic for stargazing at night from the boat. They do require batteries, but they use standard AA batteries, and we have a pile of easily rechargeable AAs onboard, so that is not an issue for us.

Fuji Stabilized Binoculars. $1099

And the standard disclaimer, these are associate links. If you buy through them, I get a small commission, that does not affect your cost. The products in this post we bought for ourselves, at full price, and we would happily buy them again. We use them virtually every day we are on the water.

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Anchor’s Aweigh!

Harmonie is out of the water now getting a long list of projects done. One of our routine projects is to end-for-end the anchor chain so we even out the wear across its length. We missed that project at our last haul, so now it has been about 3 years since we installed the chain after having it regalvanized.

Here it is, all 300 feet of it, reversed and reattached to the anchor ready to be reattached to the line that holds it to the boat.

Galvanizing is a layer of zinc over steel that protects the steel from corrosion in several ways. In properly hot dipped galvanizing the zinc is not just a surface coating, but actually diffuses into the steel, so is not easily rubbed off.

Let’s have a closer look at the chain…

One the right are the chain links that were closest to the anchor, that get run in and out and hauled over the windlass gypsy, the left is chain which rarely leaves the locker. The locker end of the chain is covered with a layer of soft, white, crusty zinc oxide, which is missing from the working links on the left. This is not the actual protective layer, but rather the product of the zinc doing its job. It is mechanically removed from the chain by the process of hauling the anchor. With in a few weeks of anchoring, the chain on the left will look like the chain on the right. That’s the point of this whole exercise: To even out the effects of mechanical wear and corrosive effects of salt water.

One of the internet myths that gets repeated often enough by people with more experience in an armchair than on a real boat is that you should never use stainless connections with galvanized chain because they are “galvanically incomparable.” In the real world, we can quickly see this is bunk.

We use a cast stainless steel swivel to attach our galvanized anchor to our galvanized chain. Here is a closse up photo of the link that has been clamped tightly in that swivel for three years.

In one small spot the galvanizing has worn through where it rubbed against the swivel. The surrounding zinc has done its job, and well protected the steel from immersion in salt water. It has not eroded away any faster than the bulk of the chain. This is a myth we can call “busted.”

Over all I am very pleased by the quality of the galvanizing job we had done. No significant corrosion at all. It looks like we can easily get another 2 years out of it, maybe significantly more.

Next Steps..

We are hoping to get back int he water at the end of this coming week. We are making pretty good progress on our projects, but also have a lot of non-boat logistics to handle in the coming days. Once back in the water, we’ll be headed to the Bahamas, and slowly make our way down the island chains to the Eastern Caribbean.

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Back in Florida

It’s late afternoon, and we are approaching Cape Canaveral from the north. As expected, the ride has been a fast and furious one. The forecasts have been spot-on with strong NW winds driving us on. In the last 24 hours we have covered about 180 nautical miles, a very strong showing, especially with little or no help from current.

The strongest winds we saw were last night, gusting to about 30 knots. That left us with short, steep seas. Very unusually, we actually took one wave up against the side of the boat hard enough to dump a significant amount of water into the cockpit. How much water? Enough to leave this little guy flopping behind!

Stowaway!

Just as a curiosity, if you look at this fish, you’ll see a few black spots on his belly. This is quite common on ocean fish. I can think of at least three very different fish families with similar marking. Any fish nerds out there have an explanation for why?

Once we pass Cape Canaveral, the strategy to get south is to keep as close to shore as possible to avoid the north bound water in the Gulf Stream. From here we expect to be entering Port Everglades inlet in about 24 hours

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And the Migration Continues…

We have been anchored off of Hilton Head Island for 10 days, spending time with Bill’s sister and her family. It was great fun catching up in a place that has so many happy memories collected over the last 50 years.

Moonrise over Braddock Cove, Hilton Head Island.

We have been waiting for the last few days here at anchor in Calibogee Sound for the weather to shift. Winds have been blowing out of the southeast to southwest, making a trip further south problematic. That changes early tomorrow afternoon when a cold front drops down through this area. After a cold front passage, the wind switches from south west to northwest, usually very quickly. This weather pattern will continue for most of the rest of the week.

We expect a fast sleigh ride with the wind mostly behind us, the trip taking about two and a half days down to Fort Lauderdale.

Unusually for us, we have a couple stakes in the sand on our calendar over the upcoming weeks. Next Monday Harmonie will be lifted out of the water for renewal of her bottom paint. We expect to be out to the water for two weeks getting her ready for an extended season of cruising. All of the usual stuff, with the addition of a professional survey for our insurance underwriters. If all goes to plan, we will be back in the water on December 6.

While in Florida we will be running around doing some medical stuff and other life logistics. Bill is scheduled for the exciting (?) experience of a wisdom tooth extraction.

Once we get done with all this, we are headed back out to the Bahamas, and then down the Caribbean.

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Would YOU Pass the Test?

You are the crew on a luxury superyacht. You find this EMPTY box:

What do you do?

  1. Leave it there, it’s not your job to clean up after the gallery staff.
  2. Toss it in the trash.
  3. Take it to the gallery and dump the rest of the washing up tools in it so everything is organized in one place.

The correct answer is actually #1. The box is an original piece of “art” by Andy Warhol, and is worth $3,000,000.

The actual crew on the yacht made the wrong choice (They threw it in the trash bin). Oooops.

Harmonie’s Plan

We have been at anchor at anchor in Charleston, South Carolina for the past few days with some unusual neighbors in the anchorage:

This is the USS Yorktown, a fairly famous aircraft carrier from WWII, now a permanent museum at Patriot’s Point.

Within a few hours we will ride the ebb tide out of the harbor here and head south again. This time our destination is about 12 hours away, Hilton Head Island. We’ll spend a week there, catching up with Bill’s sister and her family while they are there on vacation.

From there, we will make our way slowly further south toward Fort Lauderdale. We are going to have Harmonie out of the water for about 2 weeks at the end of November. During this time, she will get her bottom painted and a few other projects will be attended to.

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Leader of the Pack.

https://saillogger.com/monitor/451

We sailed down the Chesapeake over night taking advantage of mostly favorable winds, and arrived at the mouth of the bay at about 6AM. We are continuing to sail at a good pace with favorable winds out along Virginia Beach, and Kitty Hawk toward Cape Hatteras, where we will turn south. Right now the wind is still out of the south southwest, which is nice for our current course. We are counting on the wind backing toward the north as forecast about the time we turn the corner at Hatteras to make the trip south more comfortable.

I did just happen to look at MarineTraffic.com to get a longer range picture of the traffic in the area, and Holy Cow! It looks like over two dozen boats pulled out of Norfolk anchorages this morning and fell in behind us on the migration south. In the following image, the purple boats are the recreational boats like us…

Now the challenge will be: Keeping all of them behind us! 😁

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