Goodbye to Abaco!

Time: 1320 local
Lat: 26° 20.1’ N
Log: 076° 47.3W

After several weeks bouncing around the Sea of Abaco, and enjoying all the many places we stopped there, we are off exploring again.

We are currently underway headed southeast toward Cat Island, one of the larger “Out Islands” of the Bahamas. It is a bit less settled, and a bit less visited, and the a reputation for great fishing.

Right now we are experiencing the very picture of “smooth sailing.” Deep reaching with reasonably steady 10 knots of wind, 4.5 knots of boat speed, and calm seas. We will be sailing overnight, and coming to an anchorage near our destination in the morning.

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Planning.

Weather here in the Bahamas is a mixture of Caribbean tropical and North American Temperate.  That means we get “normal” tradewinds blowing from a generally easterly direction, punctuated periodically by the tail ends of continental cold fronts.  In the 48 hours before a cold front approaches, the wind slowly clocks around from the east to the south west, usually increasing in slowly in strength.  Clouds thicken.  Rain starts suddenly, sometimes accompanied by thunder and lightening.  After a relatively short period of heavy rain, the wind switches suddenly to the north and blows hard for a few hours, then slowly tapers off as the rain fades away.  The wind continues it slow swing around the clock, and soon everything is back the way it started. These days it is all very predictable,  We know, for example, that a front will be passing through in the afternoon two days from now.

For boats anchored out here, this presents a challenge.  There are very few places here you can anchor which will give you protection from winds from all of those directions.  This means you have a couple of options. You can crowd into one of the few protected anchorages.  You can move the boat from one spot to another as the wind changes.  Or you can grab a slip in a marina.  For this frontal passage, we are going to wimp out and do the marina thing.  Once that passes, we are on the move again…

When the dinghy looks like this…

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….you know we have been grocery shopping. We are loaded up again for a trip a bit away from civilization for a while.  Here are our plans for the next few weeks.

We are heading about 120 miles southeast to Cat Island, hopefully to enjoy some of the great fishing there.  We will then be back up a little further north to Eleurthera to pick up my friend Alicia in mid May.  Then the last week in may we are joined by Alicia’s friend Annie and–with a full crew–we head north. We are really looking forward to an offshore passage with a crew full of sailors!

Where we will touch land on the east coast is still a bit up in the air.  But our ultimate goal is to get further north than we did last year, at least as far as Nova Scotia before the advancing winter chases us south again.

 

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We’re moving…

If you haven’t had the chance, go back to our previous post: Eat Snail  I have updated it with some fun photographs now that we are connected again…

Grand Cay

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Now THAT”S waterfront property!

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The Grand Cay waterfront.

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We have hooked WHAT?

Last night, we had settled in at a comfortable anchorage near Grand Cay in the Abacos.  Shallow water (8 feet), mostly clear sand bottom, breezy (15 to 18 knots) but not anything out of the ordinary.  The last thing we expected was a problem with the anchor .

As part of our normal bedtime routine, I set up the anchor alarm program on my phone.  A few minutes later, the alarm is sounding. Sure enough, we are dragging downwind.  Slowly, but definitely.  In the pitch black, before the moon rise, we get the anchor up and motor back to where we want to be.  Again we drop the anchor.  This time with a LOT of chain out.  At first, it looks good, but a gust of wind, and off we go again.  This is really strange.  I am beginning to have fantasies of replacing this anchor, forgetting that it has held us 199 times out of 200.

One more time, up the anchor comes.  After it clears the water, Karen gets a good look at it with the flashlight.  Ah-Ha!  Stuck on the point of the anchor is… an outboard motor! She manages to get the debris free, and this time the anchor sets down into the bottom like it was bolted down.

Now THAT’S a Wreck!

Off one of the tiny islands surrounding Grand Cay is a huge pile of metal.  From a distance it is not at all clear what it is, but close up, we could see it was the remains of a work barge.  The three tall pilings could be driven down into the bottom to lift the barge out of the water and provide a stable work platform for… whatever.  We haven’t had a chance yet to get the scoop from one of the locals, but a good guess is it was parked there

to ride out a hurricane…  which it didn’t.

An irony… googling the name of the barge–Jim Gibson–turns up a famous English photographer from the Cornish coast who specialized in… yep… shipwrecks.

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Missing the Point?

It has been some time since we have been so far off the grid I needed to post using the Satphone, but here we are!

As we approached Great Sale Cay yesterday at about 3 in the afternoon, the anchorage was empty. It is a well protected anchorage with good holding in deep sand, beautiful clear water, surrounded by a fairly large, yet uninhabited, island. We were approaching from the southeast. Meanwhile, from the west, an invading armada motored ever closer… By 6PM, there were almost 20 boats, mostly motorboats and catamarans, packed in.

It turns out this is frequently the first stop for boats coming into the Bahamas from Florida. Judging by the chatter on the radio many of the boats that arrived were traveling together, and had all likely been waiting for some time for calm weather to make the 50 mile crossing. By 9AM the next morning, they are ALL gone–on a beeline to the bars and social entertainments of Marsh Harbour. One boat pulled his anchor in the pitch dark at 4AM! Really?

It is not fair to expect everybody to cruise the same way, but this is such a beautiful spot, the weather is perfect, and there is so much to see and explore, that to blast through like it was room in a Motel 6 seems to very much miss the point of coming to the Abacos in the first place. Oh well… if we understood people we probably wouldn’t be out here enjoying ourselves far away from civilization on a boat.

This morning we took advantage of the calm conditions. We dropped our mainsail and re- repaired (correctly this time!) our mainsail leech line. The weather is as warm and steamy as anything we have seen since last summer. In fact it is warm enough we are hoping the shower we can see in the distance is coming this way!

Right now we are trying to decide if this afternoon’s excursion will be snorkeling at the blue hole or exploring on shore… Decisions, decisions.

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Eat Snail!

We have been anchored at Moraine Cay (again) for the past couple of days. It still is one of our favorite places. 

It receives bad reviews as a relatively unprotected anchorage in the guide books, so people don’t come here, which is fine with us!  Today another sailboat did come up and anchor while we were exploring in our dinghy.  We stopped by to say hello.  They were planning to spend the afternoon swimming and snorkeling before heading over to the crowded “recommended” anchorage an island or two over… We told them about the sharks… they left.

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One of our buddies at Moraine Cay.  This guy was determined to eat the camera. (Don’t worry, I am NOT holding the camera!  It’s on a pole over the side of the boat.)

It wasn’t our plan, to make them leave… Honest!

_4010007I have given up on trying to get fish for dinner here after hooking a nice sized yellow snapper, and losing (most of) him to a big barracuda.  I am definitely not proving to be the top of the food chain here!

 

Fortunately, Karen stepped up and managed, after a dramatic chase on the shallow turtle grass flats, to bring down some conch and whelk.  I know that conch is the “glory boy” of the marine snail world here in the Caribbean, but honestly, I can’t tell the difference between conch and whelk on the table.  They all make GREAT fritters! You might have seen whelk on the menu at a fancy Italian restaurant as “scungili.”

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A large knobbed whelk.  

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Whelk and conch ready for the pot.

Although superficially similar in appearance, they are quite different critters.  The conch is a grazing herbivore, while the whelk is a carnivorous snail that uses the edge of its shell to pry open clams and other bivalves.

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Competitive Fishing.

For a lot of people fishing is a competitive sport.  All one has to do is see the amount of time, money and energy that goes into some of the big fishing tournaments.  And was there ever a fishermen who never felt the competitive need to stretch the size of his catch in telling a story? (Other than yours truly, of course…)

But this kind of competition is new to me!  Around the reefs here, the sharks have the game all figured out.  As soon as I show up in the dinghy, there they are… two or three 5 to 6 footers shadowing me.  Waiting…

Yesterday I was two for three.  I landed two small fish–small enough I could get them on board right away.  When I hook something a bit bigger that I couldn’t muscle right up to the boat…  my competition was all over it.  He grabbed the head, cutting the line instantly with his teeth, and then leisurely came back to scarf down the back half of MY fish as it slowly sank toward the bottom.  Of course the water is so clear you can see all this going on under your boat.  Not sure yet how I am going to work around this…

Today was a calm and quiet day, so we took Harmonie out in the ocean to try some deep fishing for snapper and grouper.  I had no luck there, but while we were drifting, there was a flash of blue, green and gold in the water.  So bright, you’d swear it reflected more light than landed on it.  Mahi!  I grabbed a spinning rod with a white jig, and had him right away.  _3310031

It was a lot of fun landing him on lighter tackle than the heavy trolling gear where we usually hook them. He put on quite an aerial show. _3310030

Fresh Mahi-Mahi for dinner!

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Bits and Pieces…

Waiting out the weather…

Regular readers of this space will have noted by now that we do a lot of waiting out the weather. We make no apologies for this, it keeps our sailing easy, fun, and safe.  A wise guy once noted that if you are on a motorboat you have to throw away your clock, and if you are on a sailboat you throw away your calendar.  In that spirit, we spent a couple of days “holed up” at Manjack Cay waiting while the latest in a seemingly endless series of cold fronts blew on through. Each of these fronts is the southern “tail” of the Nor’easters that have been repeatedly pounding the Northeast coast of the USA.  Hopefully, this was the last of the string!

For a place to be “stuck” Manjack Cay has a lot to recommend it.  Beautiful beaches, with great shelling, a shallow lagoon full of friendly green sea turtles, and a maze of mangrove creeks to explore.

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Ocean side beach with shells, lots of shells.

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Mangrove creek.

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The big stars of the lagoon

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Yes, it is this pretty…

Faster, faster!

This morning we pulled anchor and sailed east, along with a nearly a dozen other boats. With the understanding that the definition of a “race” is two sailboats going in the same direction, we are happy to report that Harmonie left the entire fleet in her wake. For a boat that is first and foremost, designed as a cruising boat, she never ceases to impress me with her performance. It is not unusual for people unfamiliar with these boats to describe them as “big, heavy, and slow.”  “Big” they might be, but they are not heavy (they come in as “medium” for their size), and slow they definitely are NOT!

Where we are now

Tonight we are anchored off of Foxtown, at the far northeastern end of Little Abaco Island.  The wind is supposed to be fading over the next couple of days, but the swells from that last North Atlantic storm will be “raging” against the out reefs here for another day or two. Once they die down, we will move closer to the ocean for the snorkeling and fishing opportunities.

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Every settlement in the Bahamas has a pile of discarded conch shells.  Foxtown has a BIG pile!

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Beautiful Moraine Cay.

Moraine Cay is one of the great places in the Abacos, although not well known.  It has a tiny (three villa) seasonal resort on it that has not yet opened for the summer season.

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One of the villas on Moraine Cay.

It has beautiful beaches on two sides, and a small jetty protecting a small boat dock. It would make a spectacular remote and rustic vacation, and pretty reasonable in cost too.

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Karen being a touch nutty!

We walked the trails and beaches and gathered a few coconuts. As nice as it is above the water, the real attraction here is under the water.  Some of the best reefs I have seen anywhere in the Caribbean.  Lots of fish, large and small.  Karen was mentioning that the freezer was getting a bit empty, so I took the dinghy out this morning and caught a couple of tasty mutton snapper.

For anybody seriously interested in fishing, diving, snorkeling, or spearfishing this would be a great place to spend some time.  See the owner’s website:  http://morainecay.com

Of course, this being an apparently healthy aquatic ecosystem, it also has its share of “higher end” predators.  During my morning fishing trip, I was bringing a nice sized bar jack in over the side of the dinghy, when something else much larger–and with teeth–decided to argue with me for possession.  For those of you old enough to remember the original movie Jaws, imagine the scene that includes the line “You’re gonna need a bigger boat!”, just on a slightly smaller scale! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKY8AEG-CQ8

Shark baiting trimmed-1

After that first heart stopping encounter the shark shadowed the dinghy hoping for another opportunity.  It was obvious that I wasn’t likely to get any more fish landed in one piece, so I headed back to Harmonie with what I had so far.

After we cleaned the snapper, we had three of these guys hanging around the boat for most of the afternoon.

We are expecting another bit of “weather” the day after tomorrow, and we need to restock our fresh food bins, so we are going to be heading back toward the Marsh Harbour area tomorrow.

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Better Lucky than Good!

After battling big winds and big waves all last week, we took advantage of a lull in the excitement to move the boat deeper into the Abaco Islands, and further away from the hustle and bustle of Marsh Harbour.

The offshore swell is now completely gone, and so is the wind.  We motored the 25 miles northwest on seas that ranged from slightly rippled all the way down to flat and glassy.  We saw a pod of large Risso’s dolphins, a very small ocean sunfish, and (as usual) many flying fish scattering away from the boat.  The unusually calm conditions seemed ideally suited to getting a picture of one of these amazing creatures, so I grabbed my biggest telephoto lens, and sat patiently waiting…

Honestly, I wasn’t expecting much from my first try at this.  I was sure a fair amount of practice would be needed to get even a marginally respectable shot. I was shocked to see this as the very first shot on the card…

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Flying fish takeoff run!

I couldn’t improve on this for the rest of the afternoon.

We are currently anchored near Moraine Cay.  A quick dinghy tour after we arrived showed us some of the most amazing snorkeling, fishing, and diving I have ever seen in the Caribbean.  We’ll surely spend a few days here exploring.  We are also alone in this part of the Sea of Abaco.  No other boats to be seen.

 

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Blowing things up.

OK, we are not blowing up a lot of things…  just the dinghy.

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We do like our dinghy.  Karen has christened it “Rhythm” (to go with Harmonie, get it?) Our inflatable dinghy is our local transportation wherever we go.  Since we inflate and deflate it a lot, we have had a lot of time to work out what works best for us.

The normal air pump used on most dinghies like ours is a foot bellows pump. They work, but I find them awkward and uncomfortable to use.  Pumping at full speed, it takes about 10 or 15 minutes to inflate our little boat.  Not awful, but if it’s hot and sunny, it can be sweaty work.

When Amel built the Super Maramu boats, they included an electric dinghy inflator pump.  As far as I know, these all died an early death, because it is really hard to find a well made unit on the market.  So many of them are little more than toys, built for inflating other toys.

After an extensive search, we think we have found the right answer.  An Italian company named Scoprega has an extensive line of both manual and electric air pumps sold under the “Bravo” brand name. We have found some of these to be well made and highly functional.

Our dinghy needs to be inflated to a fairly high pressure, about 3.5 P.S.I., so our inflation process is a two stage operation.  First, is a high speed electric inflation pump, a Bravo OV10.

Our “fast” air pump, a Bravo OV10

Bravo OV10 Air Pump West Marine sells the same pump with in a store-brand box.  Note that the adapter required to inflate most modern dinghies is NOT included, but must be obtained separately.

This pump runs off our 110V inverter and it is also available in a 220V version. It takes about 3 minutes to have the dinghy nearly full. Although it does suck a fair amount of power (1000W) it goes so fast it has no real impact on our batteries. Other than the vacuum cleaner-like whine, is is an easy and pleasant process.

I say nearly full, because while this pump is really fast, it doesn’t QUITE get the tubes to the full pressure they need to be. For that we used another Bravo brand product, a Bravo 101 hand pump.

We liked this hand pump for a couple of reasons.  The tube that runs to the dinghy is attached to a fixed point on the pump.  On most similar products it is attached to the handle, and goes up and down as you pump.  It also has an easily visible pressure gauge.

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Bill puts the final puffs into the the dinghy with our hand pump.

About 10 to 20 strokes on each side, and the dinghy is fully inflated and ready to go.

At least for now, we think we have the dinghy inflation process as close to optimized as it is likely to get.

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