Almost halfway

Time 06NOV2018, 14:00 local
Latitude N 31° 39.3’
Longitude W 76° 30.2’
Weather: SSE, 12, gusting 15, Sunny
Course: 230°
Speed: 5.8 knots
Water temperature: 80.8°F
Nautical miles from Chesapeake Bay Bridge/Tunnel: 319NM
Nautical miles to Port Everglades, Florida: 383NM

A bit less than halfway as the gull flies, but past halfway in sailing distance. We’ve had more variable weather than in past trips, but nothing nasty. A bit more beating into the wind than we like, but we continue to make good progress. We should be making landfall late Friday or early Saturday.

We are once again in the world of flying fish. We know this because we have found the first one on deck this morning. Maybe tomorrow we’ll get the fishing lines out.

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Progess South

Time 05NOV2018, 10:00 local
Latitude N 33° 08.0’
Longitude W 75° 34.2’
Wind: SSE, 12, gusting 15
Course: 230°
Speed: 5.2 knots
Water temperature: 80.6°F
Nautical miles from Chesapeake Bay Bridge/Tunnel: 231NM
Nautical miles to Port Everglades, Florida: 484NM

After a fast and windy day yesterday, and a windy rainy night, we are on the back side of the front. A few scattered shower remain, gray skies, and the waves are shrinking as the wind fades. The air temperature is warm and comfortable, we have shed the layers of warm clothing we needed just two days ago.

The wind direction is not ideal, but at least for now we can maintain a course more or less in the direction we want to go. The weather models are all over the place for the next few days, we have to sort out what we get!

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“The Twinkles are Back!”

Time 04NOV2018, 05:30 local
Latitude N 35° 26.9’
Lon W 75° 07.2’
Wind: NE, 19, gusting 25
Course: 160°
Speed: 8.3 knots
Water temperature: 74.3°F
Nautical miles from Chesapeake Bay Bridge/Tunnel: 104NM
Nautical miles to Port Everglades, Florida: 616NM

The first glimmers of dawn are showing as we leave Cape Hatteras behind, and approach the edge of the continental shelf where the water drops from a hundred feet deep to over a mile. The weather has so far been running as predicted with wind changes in speed and direction running as we had expected. We’ll likely have the roughest water of the trip in a few hours as we cross the Gulf Stream.

After a spectacularly clear afternoon and night, a few scattered clouds are spreading across the sky. The moon rose just before dawn so we were treated to a beautiful dark sky spread of stars. The bioluminescent plankton put on a competing show in the disturbed water in Harmonie’s wake. Not just there either. As Karen announced after coming up on deck for her night watch, “The twinkles are back!” She was revering to the plankton lighting up the toilet bowl with the seawater flush!

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Southward!

Leaving the Chesapeake Bay, that’s Cape Henry Light. Our last close encounter with land for the next 4 or 5 days. We are on a fast reach with a strong current pushing us out, our speed offer ground is an impressive 10 to 12 knots. Winds are as forecast, 15 to 20 knots from the Northwest.

Several other boats have taken advantage of the favorable winds today to launch southward, it’s a crowd! With close to a dozen boats headed in the same direction, that makes a race! Not that we are competitive or anything…

We’ll be headed South-Southeast for the next 48 hours or so, crossing the Gulf Stream, then turning to the Southwest for a more or less straight run to the Florida Coast.

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It Is Always Something

IMG_1120That could be the motto of the cruising sailor. Even when you think you have everything perfect, one more look around for problems never hurts.  In that spirit, I was going over the boat again today, and found this unfortunate problem on our mainsail foil.  The metal part that is cracked is the rotating part that furls our mainsail inside the mast.

It looks like a pretty easy fix–once we get to Fort Lauderdale and can access a machine shop, but in the meantime, we’ll be sailing without our mainsail.

Now, contrary to the name, on this boat the “main” sail is not the most important sail in making the boat go. For us, that would be the genoa in the front of the boat.  Not having access to the mainsail will slow us down a bit in light winds, but won’t make that big a difference most of the time.

Things still look OK for our departure tomorrow morning.  We might have some time to sit and wait through some calm winds, but nothing difficult or scary is forecast.

 

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Impressive Neighbors

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The neighbors across the bay.

We are anchored just off the Naval Station here in Norfolk, VA.  Norfolk is by far the largest Navy presence on the east coast.  The above photo taken from our deck, is of the George W. Bush, and the Abraham Lincoln.  Two, of the ten, 1100 foot long, 100,000 ton, $8Billion, nuclear powered, Nimitz class aircraft carriers. Pretty much all day and much of the night, the Navy helicopter pilots are using our mast as a turning pylon for their take-off and landing practice.  Over… and over.

The weather forecasts are settling in to a consistent pattern.  Over Friday night a cold front will pass through.  As the front approaches, it will rain, and as the front passes, the rain will stop, and the winds will very quickly switch from south to northwest, and then to northeast.  Exactly what we need for our trip south.  Sometime early Saturday morning we expect we will weigh anchor and follow the winds to warm climes.

We are looking forward to sailing once again in water that is the deep emerald blue of the open ocean.

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A hop and a skip

IMG_9451Since we are not in a rush to get to the end of the Chesapeake Bay, we have been anchoring at night instead of sailing on in the cold darkness. We had another beautiful sail today.  Not quite as fast or exciting as yesterday, but sunny and a bit warmer.  We made good time for most of the day, and ended up in the picturesque town of Reedville.

Based on the forecast for tomorrow, our run of perfect winds is going to change, and we’ll have to work our way against a headwind down to Norfolk.  With a cold front passing over the next few days, it looks like November 3 will be our day to jump out into the ocean for the passage south.

Whenever we are talking to local sailors about our plans to move south for the winter, they always ask some version of the following question, “Inside? Or Outside?”  They are asking if we will be following the Intracoastal Waterway (the ICW), or going out into the ocean.

The ICW is a connected chain of bodies of water which–in theory–allow a boat to travel from Manasquan, New Jersey all the way to Galveston, Texas without ever venturing into the open ocean. Many boats use it.  For us it is not a realistic option.  The standard height for bridges on the the ICW is 65 feet.  Our mast is over 67 feet high.  Even worse, we need at least 6 and a half feet of water to float.  Many parts of the ICW are much shallower than that. Somehow taking a boat like Harmonie “down the ditch” just doesn’t seem quite right.  Like taking a F1 race car to the corner store to pick up a gallon of milk!

For us, and our boat, the ocean is the far better option.  With reasonable care watching the weather, we feel completely safe offshore where there are few other boats to dodge, and no shallows or rocks to run up on.  Out in the ocean we get to relax–a bit–while sailing.  Whenever we are near the “hard stuff” we have to pay constant attention.

Besides, out in the middle of the ocean is where the big fish live!!

 

 

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Argh! It’s ice!

We left Annapolis morning to a fast sail down the bay.  Harmonie was blasting along on a beam reach at 8 to 9.5 knots almost all day. As we gathered more weather information it became clear that there was no need to rush down to the mouth of the Bay and the ocean.  That left us with a decision:  Sail all night in the cold?  Or anchor overnight and sleep under the fluffy down comforter?  Hmmm…  let’s think about that…

A few very small, widely scattered showers were blowing through as we approached Solomons Island to anchor for the night.  As one sprinkled on us Karen, always one to look on the bright side, commented, “It is better than snow!”

We got the anchor down and set, and began to relax, when a tiny little black cloud came right over the top of us, and started to drop some light rain.  Karen quickly noticed that the raindrops were bouncing when they hit the deck…  “Argh!  It’s ice!”  Sure enough, this little cloud was punching well above its weight and dropping small hail on us. In three minutes it was all over.

It’s quiet and settled now. There are many other boats taking advantage of the same weather we are to move down the bay.  There is a large crowd of boats that have already arrived in Norfolk and are going to be looking to leave for points south early next week.  It will be interesting to see everyone choses the same day to leave…

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And They’re Off…

Tomorrow morning we start our migration south.  We untie from the docks here at Jabin’s Yard, and ride what we hope will be a following wind down the Chesapeake Bay.

The ocean weather for our passage south to Florida is still a bit questionable, not so much for safety, but for comfort. Since we do this for fun, it makes no sense to head out into weather where we will get tossed around if we do not need to!  If it continues like uncertain, we’ll be making our way as far south as Norfolk, at the entrance to the Bay.  Will will anchor and wait there for a few days until the next cold front drops down, and makes the weather more palatable for a run offshore.

It’s cold here now, nights consistently in the low 40’s.  There has been some frost, and the leaves on the trees are starting to color.  Sailing will be chilly for a day or so as we head out into the ocean.  We actually were out this morning picking up some longjohns for the cool night watches! By the time we are about 150 miles offshore we hit the Gulf Stream where the water temperature is in the low 80’s, and the air will warm quickly.

 

 

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Now for the Weather.

DSC_2545

Another photo from the Amel rendezvous in St Michaels, MD.

We have been busy putting the boat back together, stowing gear, and getting ready to head south.  We know it is time to leave because we have been running the heat most nights, sleeping under a down comforter, and the local pizza delivery guy knows which boat to come to with our order!  It has been an interesting time here, meeting friends both old and new.

We have wrapped up a large number of projects on the boat.  Some that had been on our long range plan (like an isolation transformer for our shore power connection), and some that were unexpected (like a new windlass). An upgraded sonar was added so we can find and catch more fish. We also did a number of things to keep our girl Harmonie in first class “yachty” shape.  Looking back at the things finished, it’s a long list, and at least to us, an impressive one.

Most recently, a local graphics company redid our Amel logos on the sides of the boat, and Karen spent days on her knees with a toothbrush in her hand (yes, really!) detailing the decks.  The boat looks AWESOME.  We completed some other tasks this season, like updating our first aid kit, and completing everything needed for Bill to re-instate his official Coast Guard Captain’s license. (Boat Delivery, anyone?)

For the Coast Guard license, and for the first aid kit we worked with a medical local clinic, “West Street Medical.” A clinic with an interesting business model.  The entire staff is Lee Goodman, MD and Jeff Fine, PA.  No office staff at all.  They don’t take insurance, it’s a cash business. As far as we could tell, they have three parts to the business: A walk-in urgent care clinic; A subscription for a limited number of regular general practice patients, and some other bits and pieces, including travel medicine consulting.  Jeff was great in going through our First Aid kit and adding things we needed, and writing prescriptions and getting our vaccinations updated considering that we might be away from reach of the normal medical safety net for extended periods.  If you live in Annapolis, and need a primary care doctor, you should check out their subscription service.  If you are passing through and need urgent care, or just vaccines and other such care, check them out. They are good guys.

One of the interesting things we dealt with here was a battery problem. As I was working in the battery box I put my hand on one of our eight batteries, and it was warm.  Not scary hot, but definitely out of the ordinary, and hotter than all the others.  Checking things found one battery that appeared to have a short circuit in one of its cells. An email conversation with the distributer, and after running some tests he suggested, we all agreed a shorted cell was the problem.  Since these were all under warranty, they immediately shipped us a new one.  That might have been the end of it, but…  these are what are know as VRLA (Valve regulated lead acid) batteries.  They are not supposed to vent gas when charging.  But this new battery WAS venting–a lot.  Another conversation, and the manufacturer shipped us a new set of valves.  After installing those, it looks like all is now more better!

It is now early Friday morning (or late Thursday, depending on your perspective!) This weekend is supposed to be stormy here in the northeast. If the forecasts hold, it looks like we will be headed out of here on Monday morning, for a straight shot down to Fort Lauderdale, a five to six day sail.  We’ll be there long enough for Harmonie to get her bottom painted, and one or two other things finished and then we’ll be off to the islands.

We are not yet sure of our plans for the coming season.  One possibility is to go about as far south in the Caribbean as we can, and spend some time in the San Blas Islands of south eastern Panama.  They have a reputation as a fantastic place to spend some time, and they have the advantage that they are well south of the area of significant hurricane risk.  It would mean being remote from all the normal support infrastructure that we have gotten used to, so the boat has to be pretty much 100% self-sufficent for months.  We can do that.

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