It’s Aways Something

The Good…

Sometimes it is something good, like the awesomely great spot we are at anchor right now. With every change in tide the dolphins swim by, the ospreys catch their fish, and pretty is just about everywhere. Seriously, it is so nice we wish you were here. Well maybe not ALL of you at once, then it would be too crowded!

I haven’t had the nerve to fly the drone and get pictures because we have been in places with a LOT of osprey. These large and powerful birds are famous for taking a serious dislike to small drones, and regularly knock them out of the sky. That’s bad enough when you are over land, but a disaster over water. It’s not that they are mistaking them for prey–they only eat fish. They just don’t like them!

I made an exception this evening and took a chance, it was just too pretty to pass up. I did get this short clip of the lighthouse and Harmonie.

The osprey didn’t show up until I was ready to recover the drone, when one bird made a couple half-hearted passes at it. I was lucky the drone was close enough to the boat at that point he left before really getting serious about doing damage!

The Bad…

On the other hand, we have been struggling with an unusual number of equipment issues that seem to have all piled on together. We had one of our two battery chargers go south Not a huge deal, we have two. But annoying.

We had our satellite communications device’s battery die. We replaced it, and everything was fine for a week, then the device itself died. It is back at the vendor for evaluation and repair. We do miss this because it is how we get our weather and communicate offshore. Hopefully it will be back soon.

The really big deal is our main ship’s battery bank seems to have gone south, losing much of its storage capacity way earlier than it should have. We have been running some tests recommended by the technical experts at the manufacturer, and will see where that takes us.

We have a couple of upgrade and improvement projects that are in the works for our fall maintenance season, so a lot of our systems are under review. For me, this kind of systems engineering is actually part of the enjoyment of running a boat.

The Plans

The weather forecast for the next few days is delightful. We are taking advantage and running offshore to get some fishing done. With our satellite communications down, we’ll be incognito for a bit, but we promise great pictures and fun stories when we get back!

Help Us Solve A Mystery

There are many noises in the ocean, and some of them you can clearly hear inside the boat. The odd humming of the small midshipman fish in San Francisco Bay, the crackling of pistol shrimp just about everywhere. But there is a noise we have heard in many places, and the origin of this one in unknown to us.

Typically starting around sunset, the sound is like a short burst of machinegun fire, lasting about 1/2 to 3/4 second. tap-tap-tap-tap-tap-tap It repeats irregularly and not generally close together. This is a pretty common critter, we have heard the sound in many coastal places we have been. But it is not an animal present in large numbers, since we don’t hear many at one time.

Any ideas? Fish? Crustacean? Secret government experiment? Aliens?

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Why We Live On a Sailboat

It can sometimes seem like we must be nuts, living as we do. The space limitations, the costs of maintenance, the everyday work just to keep the boat floating and working as she should. But, then there are days like today when it is all worthwhile. We planned a day fishing (Spoiler Alert: We didn’t catch anything!), and the fun started even before we weighed anchor.

Karen was sitting on deck enjoying her morning tea, when a convoy of about a dozen juvenile cow-nosed rays slowly “flew” past just under the water surface.

For quite a while, they didn’t actually go anywhere, but just swam against the current holding station with Harmonie. We didn’t know it at the time, they portended an amazing day of wildlife watching.

When we pulled our anchor, we made our way out of the southern-most corner of Delaware Bay, and out into the ocean. Motoring south along the coast of Delaware and Maryland. It was calm and the water was smooth. The distinctive dark ripples that mark a school of feeding mossbunker were everywhere. Soon, we saw a school of dolphin in the distance, herding a school of ‘bunker. Then another, and another. Every school of ‘bunker seemed to have their own school of dolphin herding them along as a swimming lunch bucket. At any given moment a hundred or more dolphin could be seen stretching across the calm ocean.

None of them ever came close enough to the boat to be certain of what kind they were. We can be pretty sure from the shape of their dorsal fins that they were not same the bottlenose dolphins we saw in the harbor.

After a while, the dolphin thinned out, and we saw a large log in the water. Or at least what looked like a log–until it raised its head, took a breath, and dove. A sea turtle! And not just any sea turtle, but a leatherback. The largest of the sea turtles, they can weigh over a ton. Yes, as big as your car. For most of the day, there was at least one large leatherback in view basking on the surface.

A leatherback seat turtle pokes his large head up to take a breath.

They feed on jellyfish, have a very distinctive set of three ridges down their backs, and they were everywhere! Most were a distance from the boat, but one was close enough to almost touch.

Returning to the harbor at Lewes at the end of the day was another totally magical experience.

Some days really are rainbows and dolphins!

The sun was low in the sky, flooding the world with the light that every photographer lives for. A brilliant rainbow stretched across the eastern sky and the resident bottlenose dolphin families converged on the boat to welcome us “home” as we carried on under sail right up into the anchorage to drop the “hook” for the night.

Part of our welcoming committee. They followed us closely for 20 minutes. The guy in the rear of this photo–with the distinctive black tip on his dorsal fin–was especially curious.

All in all an almost perfect day. The only improvement would have been if I had caught some fish!

This lighthouse marks the eastern end of the breakwater that protects Lewes Harbor. We are anchored just on the other side.

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Rhythm to the Rescue!

This afternoon had a strong onshore breeze from the east, and scattered thunderstorms. During a break in the weather, I decided to head off and see if I could catch some fish for dinner. Very shortly after I pulled away from Harmonie I came across a pair of rented sea kayaks who were struggling to return to the beach they had launched from, about 2 miles straight up into the strengthening breeze. Dad had worn himself out trying to tow the two kids, and there was no way one paddle was going to move two kayaks that far into a 15 knot breeze!

Before they accepted a tow, they asked me to go check on Mom and her friend. I buzzed over to them, and the ladies insisted they were OK (Yeah, right!) so I went back to Dad and the kids, and told them I’d tow them into the beach, and then come back to check again on Mom.

Taking Dad and the kids in tow. That’s a LONG paddle back to the beach!

When we safety got back to the beach, the kids thanked me for going back out to rescue their Mom.

It took me a few minutes to find the other kayak, but there they were, essentially in the same spot I last talked to them. After half an hour of paddling–and making no progress–toward the beach, with dark clouds looming, and lightning flashing in the western sky, they were now much more agreeable to a rescue tow. I told them they really didn’t have a choice since I had already been thanked for rescuing them.

I don’t think much of the livery operation that rented inexperienced people kayaks with a strong offshore breeze. I didn’t see that they had any kind of chase boat of their own. Certainly I saw no evidence that the rental staff even knew there was a problem. They gave no indication that they were aware that three of their boats had been towed back. Sloppy… and dangerous.

On another note, we really like the town of Lewes. Pretty, clean, like a summer resort town should be, but without any of the “Disney-Fake” vibe a lot of them have. There is a town dock right in the middle of downtown, but we weren’t sure Harmonie would have fit, so we just took the dinghy in. Wonderful restaurants, and provisioning at Lloyd’s Market, a great small independent grocer. Beautiful gardens all over. It is a town worth a stop even if you don’t have to.

We got a recommendation for here as a stop from an Ocean Cruising Club member. A great organization for finding information and the inside scoop about lots of things.

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Out to the ocean again..

Without a highly specific destination in mind, we head out into the ocean not so much to get somewhere, but just to go sailing while generally meandering north.

Our track wandered basically from one fishing spot to another, in a few cases we stopped to search out a poorly charted wreck, and found one, and missed two. A sea bass was issued an invitation he couldn’t refuse to join us for dinner. 🙂

We got out as far as the “canyons” at the edge of the continental shelf, very popular fishing spots, and this was a Sunday afternoon with absolutely spectacularly beautiful weather, so the big sportfish boats were out in numbers trolling for tuna, and marlin. Many of them show up on our plotter display if they have their AIS transmitter turned on:

At the “magic hour” the dinner bell rings, and everybody heads home toward Ocean City, Maryland at once…

This was so sudden, and so closely timed, I suspect that the boats might have been involved in a tournament and all needed to be back at the dock at a specific time.

Anytime you are out in the ocean, you have the locals come pay a visit…

Yes, the water is that clear, and that blue, and the dolphins come that close to play.

We stayed out, and trolled up along the continental shelf until we reached Baltimore Canyon, and then as the sun set a light southerly breeze picked up. We set sail, and headed in toward shore. Over night we saw winds of 5 to 10 knots, and moved along at a comfortable speed on a flat sea.

Early in the morning, we come into the port of Lewes, Delaware. Famous(?) as the southern terminus of the ferry that runs from Cape May, NJ to Delaware. Delaware is one state that doesn’t currently have significant travel restrictions or quarantine requirements, so we’ll take the opportunity to head into town here.

Cape Henlopen Light makes the southern side of the entrance to Delaware Bay right off the town of Lewes.

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Now that that’s over…

The weather event that was tropical strom Isaias has blown on through, with the center of the storm just a few miles to the west of Harmonie’s location. Damage here in Hampton, VA was minor. In our marina one or two boats broke loose, but didn’t get into TOO much trouble, a few rubbed up on the dock to the detriment of both, but that was about it. Peak winds were between 60 and 70 knots, without much water level change.

We are getting good at this hurricane prep. It is something we’d just assume NOT have to do, but in this part of the world, it is just a fact of life. The more we see, the more clear it becomes that the real danger to your boat in a serious storm is the OTHER boats!

Here in this marina, I have to say nobody prepped a boat better than we did. About 10% of the other boats did almost as well. Another 60% did something. But, about 30% of the boats did absolutely nothing to prepare for the storm. I don’t know if it’s ignorance, sloth, or just a lack of care, but there are an awful lot of people who own boats who just should just stick to golf as a hobby.

We have a few business things to take care of in the next day or two, and then we’ll be out in the ocean, where we belong!

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And This Too Shall Pass…

Isaias, that is.

We are in a marina in Hampton, VA hunkered down for the arrival late tomorrow of the latest tropical storm of the season. Right now Isaias is forecast to run right over the top of us on Tuesday afternoon. The boat is tied up in a cat’s cradle of lines, and we have removed anything loose or vulnerable from the deck. Once we finish our last minute preparations tomorrow morning we have a local hotel room to check into.

The good news is the storm has never really developed into a large and extra powerful storm. No local evacuations or other serious precautions have been called for. Despite all this, a storm like this is still worthy of respect. Right now, we are probably the best tied up boat in the marina!

When in a marina, the most dangerous thing that boats experience in a serious tropical storm is the rise in water level. In the most severe case, this can actually lift the docks up off the pilings that hold them in place. The forecast storm surge for our location is minimal, only a foot or two, so we’re pretty comfortable that we are safe and secure.

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Going South to Go North.

Geography requires us to head 150 miles south down the Chesapeake Bay before we head north. We are currently anchored in Fishing Bay in Deltaville, VA. This is a very convenient anchorage for any boat transiting either north or south in the Chesapeake. It is also pretty, and well protected. We arrived about 48 hours ago, shortly after dark. We found “our spot” in the dark with our radar, and settled in uneventfully.

Yesterday was a success story on with an ongoing problem we have had with a coolant leak from the generator’s engine. The leak only happened when the engine was running, and was on the back side of the engine, which is hard to visually inspect when the engine is running. I set up our GoPro camera there with a light, and once I had a chance to review the footage, the answer was obvious, and easily remedied. So that’s all good!

As the day ended yesterday the cicadas were singing in the trees, clouds were rolling in and the sun was setting with a blaze of bright colors.

The dark clouds off to the Southeast were nasty looking, and rolling quickly toward us. It wasn’t long before bolts of lightening were lighting up the sky.

The storm arrived with buckets of rain and a blast of wind. Nothing TOO bad, maximum of 35 knots or so for no more than five or ten minutes, but that was enough to cause a bit of drama in the little bay. There were three other boats anchored here. One had a sail unroll and shred in the initial gusts. We couldn’t see how them got that under control, but it was an expensive lesson. The other two boats dragged their anchors. Not too far, but any is enough to be scary. We didn’t even think this was all that much of a wind event!

There might not have been all THAT much wind… but there was a pretty spectacular lightening show. The image to the right is a frame grab of real time lightening strikes over 10 minutes within five miles of us! Who needs fireworks?

It was all over in 30 minutes, and calm returned.

Tomorrow we will head further south toward Norfolk. The plan is to pull in there, and spend the night, then head out to the ocean on Friday.

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And… GO!!

We cast off our lines from Herrington Harbor North yesterday at 10AM and, on a mostly calm and windless bay, motored south, ending up at Solomon’s Island, a major boating center on the western shore of the central Chesapeake.

It is still hot and humid, and should continue to be until we reach the ocean in two days or so.

One thing that never ceases to amaze us is the frequency with which we run into other Amels. We left Harrington Harbor where there were three other Amel boats, and get here where there are three more! One (Loco Lola) that we know from the Bahamas, one new to us anchored right next door (Jackster) and one that lives here as its home port.

We did discover yesterday that out satellite phone battery had failed. It wasn’t immediately obvious, since we keep it plugged into power all the time. Turns out the battery is needed for it to get a connection to the satellites. Until we can get a replacement shipped in, our constant position update will be down.

What is supposed to be a sealed plastic case broke apart as the internals of the battery inflated, generating a lot of pressure! Luckily, the internal seals held and no leakage or other disaster resulted.

The unit is about 6 years old, so the operative lesson is: Chnage your Iridium Go battery when it is no older than 5 years!

Today’s assignment is to fill the diesel tank, and head further down the bay!

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And We’re Off!

Well… almost!

We have been here at Herrington Harbor North Marina in Tracys Landing, Maryland for a few months. It’s a beautiful and well run marina, but it is time to move on. The weather here on shore in July is pretty oppressive, and we need cooler climes to be comfortable! By way of example, we just finished three days in a row with a “Heat Index” of greater than 105ºF!

Our intent is to meander north toward Maine. Some places are more “open” than others, so we’ll stop at places where we are welcome, and pass by those where we are not. We will stop and fish where we want, and stop and explore where we can.

In a day or two we’ll be underway. Not in any rush, or with a specific destination. Just the way we like it!

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Seriously????

My last post here was about the dangers of a full time connection to dockside water, and the measures we take to mitigate those risks. I have always taken those risks seriously, but never actually had a plumbing failure that could have put the boat at risk.

The Three Fates weave human destiny.

Until—today. I mean really? Was my last post offensive to the Fates or what?

We finished dinner, and Karen was just finishing the cleanup when the piercing alarm that indicates a high level in the bilge sump went off. We can see that the pump is running. How can there be water there? What’s going on?

Once up in the cockpit, I can hear a noise… something is running but it is not a sound that I recognize. When I open the engine room to access the bilge, I see water spraying everywhere. AH-HA! The sound I hear is water rushing through the hose connection. Turn off the water, and everything settles back down. It only takes a few seconds to find where the hose has pulled apart from its fitting.

A couple new hose clamps, and we are back in business. Although the engine room received a good soaking, is all fresh water and in the summer heat it will all be gone quickly.

On the bright side, we were home and able to immediately respond to the situation. The bilge alarm was very important in alerting us to the issue quickly before the issues grew.

If we had been away, the water would have shut itself off after 200 gallons, and the bilge pump would have cleared that out in about 10 or 15 minutes. Nothing highly water sensitive is on the floor of the engine room so no serious damage would have been done.

If we had been away, and did NOT have a water timer on the inlet, we could have been looking at a serious, and expensive issue…

A tentative inspection shows that the hose clamp had corroded and broken. Of course they always seem to rust on the bottom where you can’t see. I have been replacing hose clamps around the boat as I see a problem, but it seems it might be time to be more systematic about that and just change all the old ones.

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