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An actual headline from the local newspaper today:  “Sweltering Heatwave Grips San Diego!”

It’s going to be…are you ready?… 85 Degrees!!!!  Such torture!  How will we survive?

But aside from the local’s intolerance of a moderately warm day, it is a pretty amazing place from the water side. The level of infrastructure here for sailing and boating is unlike any other place I have ever seen, with the possible exception of Annapolis, Maryland.  Pretty much everything you could ever imagine needing for a boat or ocean fishing is available within a mile or two of our current location.  The manufacturer of our wind-vane steering gear is located just a few miles away in La Jolla.  We’ll be visiting him for parts on Monday.

Our electronic autopilot parts are on their way, and I have done some more work on the engine, and fixed most of the deck leaks we found while beating through the waves on our way here.  I am managing two or three projects a day.  Overall, we are very happy with the boat’s progress, although delivery of some items is a bit slower than we’d wish for.

The fishing boats are coming in loaded with tuna, mahi-mahi, and wahoo.  The unseasonably warm water has the fish hanging around later in the season and in greater numbers than normal.

Sometimes things are not exactly what they seem at first glance.

While on “final approach” to Catalina Island, we were sailing due east before dawn.  It’s my watch, and we are on a good course between the various islands.  On one of my routine horizon scans, I note a bright white light just above the horizon.  I check the chartplotter, and see nothing indicating large ships on the AIS, I check out the radar, and nothing.  I am pretty sure I am looking at the stern light of a distant boat, but can’t get a good idea of it’s distance.  A little while latter, the light is now distinctly higher, I must be getting closer!  Still, nothing on radar, and nothing I can see with the binoculars.  As the light climbs higher above the horizon I realize it must be on a very tall mast, on a big boat, that is getting closer… and closer… right in front of me…

Ooops.  It’s Venus.  Suckered!  I am sure there are a few people reading this how might have had an idea where this was going.  I am also sure ANYBODY could make this mistake at 4AM!

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Anchored on our first night in San Diego, I have been asleep for several hours.  I wake to a low humming noise I recognize as the bilge pump in the engine room. Oh no!  That pump shouldn’t be running! Why is there water there?

I stagger out of bed, and stick my head in the engine room.  Sure enough, water is running down into the sump.  And a quick taste tells me it is freshwater.  There must be a leak in the freshwater plumbing.  But after a few minutes, I haven’t heard the water pump running, and can’t find any leaking fittings.  Carefully watching, I see the water is running into the engine room from the starboard side.  This is very odd.  There are no water pipes over there…

I pull the drawers out of the galley to examine the hull there, and see a trail of water back from the cockpit locker.  Again, there is no freshwater back there.  Oh… wait…

A leaking 5 gallon jug of our emergency water supply is the culprit…back to sleep.

Bigger, and bigger.

Posted by Karen:

This is a picture of a 40 foot sailboat exiting San Diego bay , that I took yesterday. The cargo vessel ( Bill says it’s a car carrier) is at least 800 feet long. A reminder of why we keep watch in the middle of the night in the middle of seeming nowhere!

The trip from Catalina Island to San Diego was not much in the way of wind, we motored probably 2/3rds of the way. But it was productive…

Hooked up again…

Fish on, again!

This time it is a small Yellowfin Tuna, also known as an Ahi.  Really, really good eating!  I think this makes it almost officially an El Nino weather year since catching these guys north of the Mexican border only happens in the warmer waters of El Nino.

Come to Dinner!

This is a pretty small Ahi, they get well over 100 lbs.  Interestingly, he wasn’t nearly as strong a fighter as the Skipjacks even though he was a little bigger. One reason might be is the Skipjacks are some of the “warm-blooded” tunas.  Cleaning them quickly after they land on deck you can feel the heat in their bodies. Kind creepy actually, filleting a fish with meat that is body temperature.  Much warmer than the water around them.  Not true with the Ahi. Like “normal” fish their bodies are at water temperature even after a fight on the line.

And then a little further along, Karen caught her first fish–ever!  A small yellowtail.  If you are a sushi fan you might know these as “hamachi”.

One Happy Fisherman!

We found a large raft of floating kelp and detoured from our course line to swing the lures past it.  We were immediately hooked up into two small yellowtail, members of the snapper family. The one on my rod was the smaller of the two, and we tossed him back to grow a bit.  We could have caught dozens of these guys.  As we pulled the hooked ones to the boat, the whole school followed along.  Some of the school even trying to steal the lures from the mouths of the hooked fish!

Coming into San Diego at night was a bit of a challenge.  It was very busy at the harbor entrance with all of the long range tuna boats heading out with their cargo of hopeful fisherman.  As we made our way in the channel, a small boat pulled up behind and shadowed us for a few minutes before turning on his flashing blue light and pulling alongside.  “Oh-oh!  What did I do?”  It was US Customs.  A few questions across the water about where we had come from and where we were going and they wished us a good evening.

The anchorage itself was PACKED with boats.  My radar did a fantastic job picking out boats and buoys so we could find a place to squeeze ourselves in.  We were anchor down at about 12:30, and probably asleep by 12:33!

Today is warm and sunny, just a trace of a breeze. Delightful really. We buzzed around the harbor in our dinghy getting pictures of boats, lunch in town, spent some time swimming, organizing for our time in port on the mainland. Nothing broke today, and nothing needed fixing!

Here is your test for the day. The boat in the photo is a commercial fishing boat of a type I had thought extinct. I have only ever seen one of it’s kind before, and that was in New England.

What does Leah Gail fish for and how?

Here is a photo of the Leah Gail.  Click on the photo for the full sized image.  That long tall structure off her bow is not a mast, rather when she is working it lowers down close to the water, a super long bowsprit.

Here is your two part question:  What does she fish for, and how does she catch them?

Plans

Our we’ll be packing up from Catalina Island in a few days. We’ll be heading over to San Diego where there is more infrastructure for repairs. Based on email exchange with the designer, it looks like I might be able to have the broken casting on the windvane welded. So I’ll need to find a crackerjack aluminum welder. Also a good chandlery is right near the docks there so we’ll have access to other bits we need.

Today I finally traced down and fixed a fuel leak on the engine that has been bedeviling me. Hopefully that is one problem that won’t come back!

Technical Lessons

I have learned something on every sailing trip I have ever taken.  No matter if it was a short day sail across the bay, or a multiple day trip.  This last trip being longer than only other I have taken I learned more than a little.  Here are some things I thought worth noting that might be of interest or use to others.

Water Use.

Only good news here. We did great without really trying super hard.  After 15 days, we have just emptied the first of our two water tanks.  At about 40 gallons, that is about 1.3 gallons per person per day.  Considering we aren’t set up for super water conservation, that’s not bad at all.  In fact I’ll call it awesome.  The biggest single contributor to using so little fresh water is the saltwater pump in the galley.  Washing dishes with as much saltwater as you like and then giving a quick fresh water rinse works well.

Electricity

Two issues here. We used more and generated less that I expected. I was a bit surprised because I had used the solar panels as my sole source of power for weeks at the dock and they more than kept up.  What changed?  Mostly, it was cloudy.  I hadn’t expected that to be a big issue.  In San Francisco Bay it is foggy a LOT.  The panels didn’t show too much of a drop in capacity on foggy days, so I expected the same in clouds.  Wrong.  San Francisco fog might be gray and dreary, but it is only a few hundred feet thick at the most.  It really isn’t very good at filtering out sunlight. A good thick tropical cloud can be many thousands of feet thick, and cuts sunlight dramatically.  Based on comments from other boats in a similar situation, I am considering adding generating capacity in the form of an alternator powered by a propeller that we tow behind the boat.

Things that did not work as promised…

The mast head instrument that works as a ultrasonic wind sensor, a GPS, and an electronic compass did two of those three functions well.  The issue was with the stability of the compass reading.  Despite the claims of the manufacturer, the compass reading was very unstable when the boat was rolling.  It would give the autopilot fits of “twitchy” steering and the “North-Up” radar display became “North kinda sorta thata way”. I have been on the phone with them, and they sounded honestly surprised by the issue.  A couple calls back and forth, and they promised me a call back tomorrow with more information. On the bright side, with no moving parts sticking out, it is pretty “bird proof”.  I was happy with that one evening when we had a masked booby circling the boat looking for a place to land for the night.

The tracking webpage run by Predict Wind has also been a bit of a disappointment.  To quote technical support from PredictWind in an email about the issue, “This is not a strong feature of the product.”  Of course they blame Iridium for the issue. Oh well, maybe it will get better…

Things to get better at…

Sailing in strong winds is easy… relatively.  Sailing in lights winds is hard.  In light air in calm water the boat does fine, and you can milk it along surprisingly fast.  Throw in an ocean swell, and everything goes wacky at less than 7 knots of wind.  Every roll shakes the wind of of the sails messes up the sail shape and slows you down.  I know I’ll get more practice at this!

We have arrived at Avalon Harbor on Catalina Island! Hot showers! Dry land! A stable deck that isn’t rolling under our feet!

We are going to hang here for a few days, and then transition to a marina on the mainland where we can manage logistics for repair.

The last 48 hours or so were almost all downwind. The struggle of 24 hours a day of hands-on steering really made me feel totally justified in deciding to head back instead of pressing on down wind to Hawai’i. Day after day of hands on the wheel would have been too much for any two person crew. Certainly I found after an hour on the wheel I was ready for a break, and my watch has three hours left to go!

It’s not that the boat is hard to steer, it’s just that it needs it. Imagine driving your car for 12 hours a day for 2 weeks. A day? Sure. Two, okay. Three gets old. A week? Two? Not me!

For now we calling Catalina our “Practice Island”. It’s not exactly like Hawai’i, but it is really a delightful location.

I’ll hopefully have some pictures to post tomorrow!

Fishermen use the word “structure” a lot. They mean any feature underwater that attracts fish. In a lake it might be a submerged tree, or a deep hole or drop off. In a stream it might be a pile of rocks. Something different from its surroundings.

What could structure look like in the open ocean? One kind is floating stuff. A raft of kelp, or a log attracts some kinds of fish. As we were sailing toward the coast today, I saw on the chart structure. It’s 13,000 feet deep, so what was I looking at? An underwater mountain, actually a series of them, that towered 5000 feet above the surrounding flat plain. Of course that still leaves them 8000 feet below the surface. Not something a surface dwelling fish would ever notice but for the disturbance such a feature makes in the water flow. Nutrient rich water gets pushed up from down deep, and feeds a complex open ocean food chain. As we approach I set two lines and went back to other things.

About an hour later the scream of a fast running drag gets us jumping to action. Getting the boat stopped and getting the rod in hand takes a few minutes. By this time the fish is the better part of 150 yards away. I know because at that point he launched completely out of the water. Long, thin, light colored, about 4 feet long. My 50 pound test line hasn’t slowed him down yet, much less stopped him. On the third jump he threw the hook and was gone. I think it was a wahoo, but can’t be sure.

An hour later, a reel again starts peeling off line. Karen starts to slow the boat, while I go back to the rod. Before we can do either, the OTHER rod is hooked into a fish! A double! Of course one swims left when the other goes right, and then they reverse, twisting the lines. I get the first to the boat, and we have a 6 pound skipjack tuna in the cockpit. The second fish twists off the hook before we can get the lines sorted out.

By the time we get things sorted out, the thrashing fish has left a bloody mess in the cockpit. It looks like the scene of an axe murder. Blood is everywhere. A few minutes later, he is steaks in the freezer, many more minutes later we have things washed down and cleaned up.

So far we are doing pretty well on this ocean fishing stuff! Almost two weeks at sea, and the freezer has more in it than when we left.

It looks like we’ll be tying up Monday. Our planned first stop is Avalon Harbor on Santa Catalina Island. That first hot shower is sounding mighty appealing.