A Wet Crossing.

We untied from the docks at Bimini early this morning, and set out course for Grand Bahama Island, one of the major commercial and tourism locations in this country.  Mostly the passage was uneventful, except as Karen noted, it was a very “un-Caribbean” looking day.  Meaning… overcast gray skies and gray water.  The closer we got to our destination at the Grand Bahamas Yacht Club, the more the gray skies poured rain down on us.

I was hopefully that we would snag a wahoo on the run over here, but it was not to be.  We arrived–fishless at the yacht club at about 5, and just after we tied the last line to the dock, the heavens opened, for real.  It rained so hard, I am pretty sure if someone stood looking up at the sky they would have been at risk of drowning!

It’s an early night for us after a tiring day.  The weather for the next couple days looks like on-and-off showers.  Time to break out the umbrella!  We have a project to do while we are here:  find a fuse for one of our battery chargers that is on the fritz.  I am hoping that the fix will be that simple…

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Fast! Faster! Fastest!

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Key West to Bimini.

Joining the 200 mile Club

We finished our passage from the anchorage at Key West to the dock here in North Bimini in record (for us!) time.  The actual over ground distance we covered was 201 nautical miles, and we did that in 22 1/2 hours for an average speed of 8.9 knots! Wow.

Even in a boat this size you can sail for a very long time and not do 200 miles in 24 hours.  Now, we did cheat a bit (OK, more than a bit) traveling with the Gulf Stream that gave us a push from behind of 2 knots for much of the trip, but we were on a fast reach almost all the way, and routinely saw speeds through the water of 8.5 to 9.5 knots.  That was the good news!

Now there is a saying with certain types of sailors, “Fast is fun!”  I am sure they mean it, but they were not with us on this trip.  The waves were not big, I doubt we ever saw any over 6 feet.  Certainly, not the biggest waves we have sailed in, but this was the least comfortable sea we have ever spent this many hours on.

Because of the fast current, the waves were short, steep, and seemed to come from all directions at once. Moving around the boat was a constant challenge to keep our footing. We could never predict which way it was going next. Both of us were seasick for at least part of the way, and that doesn’t happen often! For those of you who might routinely sail in San Francisco, imagine sailing in the washing machine of waves that is the Golden Gate on a strong ebb tide–for 18 hours…

Normally the AMEL hull shape is very “sea-kindly,” meaning it has a smooth, gentle motion through waves.  Normally.  On this run, about every 15 minutes or so we would come down off one wave, and crash into the next with a great thud, and water would pour across the deck.  Fortunately, we were warm and dry under the dodger, but it is not often we see green water pour over the dodger windows!

Surf to the Left of Me, Surf to the Right…

Arriving for the first time at the entrance to the harbor in North Bimini with significant surf running is… interesting.  You see on the chart where you are supposed to go, but what you see from offshore as you approach is a continuous line of breaking surf…  Screen Shot 2018-01-06 at 12.00.07

You have to run straight into what looks like a solid wall of breakers, then make a sharp left, just before you run up on shore, to run the channel behind the shallow bar where the waves are furiously churning. The chart tells you that all around is “Shifting sand” that you know has not been surveyed since well before Hurricane Irma stirred up these waters. Just to add to the fun, there is a powerful tidal current flowing in, so pretty much once we commit, there is no good way of turning back.

As we were circling, trying to make sure we understood what the chart and buoys were telling us, we had the good fortune to have a local tourist dive boat come out of the harbor.  Watching him gave us the confidence that the approach we were planning really was the correct one.

The final challenge was getting the boat into the marina slip, while fighting a current of 2 knots.  Even that came off without a problem, although I have to admit my first approach had to be aborted when I didn’t get the current judged quite right.

Welcome to the Bahamas, Mon!

Karen took our paperwork to customs and got us checked in.  We have our cruising permit, fishing license, and are good to stay in the Bahamas for the next three months.

Bimini is still a bit rough after the hurricane, many of the local businesses are still rebuilding, and lots of buildings are torn up, but basic services are functioning. Speaking of basic services, “Bailey the Lobsterman” came down the dock this morning and greeted us offering his wares.  A dozen fresh caught local lobster for:  $50. Good thing we have room in the freezer 🙂

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And, We’re Off!

As a huge and fast moving winter storm powers up the frozen Atlantic Coast of the USA, we are getting ready to hop on the back side wind of that same weather system to have a fast and easy ride from Key West to our planned landfall in Bimini, Bahamas.  We’ll be leaving tomorrow morning, and it looks to be a 20 hour trip, more or less.

Looking at the weather reports up and down the East Coast, we are REALLY glad to be far enough south that we are out of the cold.  This evening the US Coast Guard closed the entrance to Chesapeake Bay because of ICE!  They actually had cutters out along the Virginia shore on ice breaking duty.  Geez.  We were actually thinking about how chilly it was going to be on our sail tomorrow.  It might get down to 60ºF overnight!

Here are some pictures from around the island…

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Ibis (Ibises? Ibi?) are locally pretty common in open country across a lot of Florida..

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Non-native iguanas are very common in all the warmer parts of Florida.  Younger animals and females are green.  The mature males tend to be more flamboyant.

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Like the kid in the candy store!  Oh, wait… it IS a candy store!

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Interior battlements at Fort Taylor

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The parade ground at Fort Tylor

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Historic Fort Taylor on the southernmost part of Key West.

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The moat around Fort Taylor.

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Holiday Interruption…

We had expected that the package of mail from our forwarding service would have arrived today,  so we could get out of Dodge before the New Year, but somehow in the post-Christmas rush (is there such a thing?) delivery of our package got held up a day. Which, because of the holiday weekend, actually means 4 days. It won’t be available to us until Tuesday afternoon.  Oh well, there are worse places to be stuck for a few days.

So the newly revised plan (weather permitting) is to dart out of here on Wednesday morning and head up toward Bimini to check into the Bahamas for the next phase of our adventure.  That will be a 24 hour run, more or less, moving fast, “downstream” in the Gulf Stream.

In the mean time Key West is keeping us entertained.  Yesterday’s boat fun was rearranging the storage of some heavy items on the boat to see if we can improve our trim a bit.

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A Crappy Problem with a Solution.

You learn all kinds of things when you have a cruising sailboat.  You are away from basic services, so you have to be your own electric company, your own water company, your own sewage company, among many other things. Today I am writing about our LEAST favorite utility from that list: sewage disposal.

There is one problem in particular that plagues boats in salt water.  Salt water is not compatible with human waste. When you mix the two, a small amount of hard, stony material precipitates.  Over time this hard stuff collects on the inside of pipes and tanks, gradually clogging them.

IMG_2DA9191A009F-1This stuff is called many things by sailors, usually names not printable.  But when in polite company, it is usually called “calcium”.  Many sailors assume it is calcium carbonate, the material that seashells are made of.  It is not. It is a complex mixture of various things, likely mostly calcium oxalate, a primary component of some kinds of kidney stones. The photo on the right is what we found in the hoses in our aft head.  Not a disaster–yet.  But the diameter of the hose has been reduced by almost 25%, and every narrowing of the hose makes a truly messy clog more likely.

IMG_7161A7CC719A-1One common myth about this stuff is you can prevent its formation and/or dissolve it away with vinegar.  Nope.  Doesn’t work.  This is one of those things that gets repeated so often people start to believe it. It is told to beginning sailors, and becomes part of what they “know” to be true.  “Experts” say it all the time.  A simple experiment shows that vinegar has almost no effect at all. After the “Before” picture was taken, we emptied the hoses of all water, and filled them with straight, undiluted vinegar, and left them to soak for six hours, then flushed through with seawater.  The result was, as you can see, not worth the trouble. The stuff lining the hose was just as hard, and just as intact as it was before.

The traditional way of cleaning this stuff out is to remove the hoses, take them to the dock, and beat them against a piling until it breaks up into little pebbles and falls out.  It is effective, but not exactly a great way to spend your afternoon. It also does not do any good at all for tanks, and piping that you can’t remove.

Trac Ecological Sew Clean  to the rescue. While at the Annapolis Boat Show in October we found a product that claims to make this problem go away from a company called Trac Ecological that specialized in this kind of cleaning. I am always skeptical of things that work “like magic,” but given the hassle of the alternative, this stuff looked worth a try. It’s a concentrate that you dilute 5:1, so you don’t need a lot of it.

IMG_39A7B60BE435-1I am happy to report, it worked, and not just a little, but perfectly. The picture on the right is the same hose after a 6 hour soak in SewClean followed by a saltwater flush.  Pretty impressive.

Update:  Instead of a long soak, it is much faster if you can recirculate the cleaning solution.  The first time we did this I could not figure out a way to do that.  Recently, I realized that we can empty the holding tank, close the discharge valve, add the cleaning solution, then extract the cleaning solution from the holding tank deck fitting with our vacuum oil extractor.  Empty it back into the toilet.  Pump back to the tank. And repeat.  Cleaner in a fraction of the time since the cleaning solution is mixing all the time.

Now, there is one thing you have to be careful of.  Not all of the hard chips will fully dissolve, especially if you have a really thick layer.  It is possible that they can lodge somewhere in your piping and cause a problem.  In our case, everything either dissolved or broke up into small enough pieces that  it just flushed through.  It is best if you can arrange for the cleaning solution to circulate through your system, but there was no way we could figure out to do that, so we had to settle for a simple soak.

We are going to add this to our regular maintenance program and do this soak every 6 months.  A gallon of diluted SewClean costs about 8 times as much as a gallon of undiluted white vinegar, but it works 100 times better.  The vinegar is staying in the galley–where it belongs.

We have no association with Trac Ecological, other than being satisfied customers.  If you buy through the Amazon link, we get a small fee back to us that doesn’t change your price.  There are many other dealers than Amazon. We only review and recommend products we actually use.
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A Short Key West Stroll

Merry Christmas to everybody! I know that many of our readers in the US Mainland are experiencing cold, snowy weather, so I will resist the temptation to gloat about the weather here right now…

DSC_2032A pretty place is Key West.  Some parts of town are a bit overrun with tourists and the various ticky-tack businesses that pop up to cater to them, but other places are just plain pretty. There is a pretty steady stream of cruise ships that make port calls here, but they tend to be the smaller ones, and there is only room for one at a time so they don’t quite totally overwhelm town like in some places.

DSC_2031When the United States acquired Florida from Spain, Key West was pretty much uninhabited. The U.S.Navy developed a base here in the early 19th century that was initially used to “discourage” the original Pirates of the Caribbean. The Navy is still here, although in a greatly reduced capacity.  Just a few hours before we arrived, an Amphibious Assault Ship arrived at the Navy dock.  We were told she is the largest Navy vessel to make a port call in Key West since World War II.

Much of the housing stock is 100 to 150 years old, and of a style know as “Carpenter Gothic.” I can only imagine the amount of care it takes to keep a wood frame building healthy for over a century in this climate! Here we saw relatively little serious hurricane damage.  Much more prominent were holiday decorations that tend to have a distinctly tropical flavor.

 

An interesting stop that we almost passed by was the US Coast Guard Cutter Ingham. She was the longest serving ship in the US fleet, in service for 50 years from convoy duty in WWII through drug interdiction service ending in 1988.  She was rescued from the scrap yard by a bunch of dedicated (or crazy!) guys who turned her into a museum.  It was a much more interesting tour than I expected, and if you have any interest in such things is well worth a stop if you are in the area.

 

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If you do visit the ship, be sure to take some time to chat with her caretakers.  They have lots of fascinating stories. Like the visit they had from the German U-boat Captain who had her targeted in his periscope but shifted at the last minute to fire his torpedos at a larger ship nearby.

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The End of the Road…

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A lighthouse in the Keys.

Well, not the end of OUR road, but we are now at the very southern end of US Highway #1 that stretches up the entire length of the east coast. Only a few months ago we were anchored in Maine, near the northern terminus of this highway. We are now anchored off Key West.  I’ll leave it to the people of Florida and Maine to decide who has the beginning and who the end.

We spend a couple of nights at Big Pine Key visiting a former sailing school associate of mine who now runs the Outward Bound sailing program there. A great adventure program where people learn a lot about themselves and what they really can do when they have to.

Navigating in the Keys is more than just a minor challenge for a boat like Harmonie who needs more than 6 feet of water to float.  Last year we managed to sail Harmonie for about 4 hours before we managed to bump her freshly painted keel on the bottom.  This time it was two days…  What LOOKED like a tight–but doable–channel to get into a nice protected anchorage turned out to be shallower than charted.  We scraped and bumped a few times, and then got stopped dead and had to turn around.  The weather was fine and settled, so we anchored in a more exposed location.  The only problem with the spot was the 10 mile dinghy ride to Alicia’s place. That new, more powerful, outboard we picked up in the Virgin Islands last spring showed its stuff.

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Hurricane casualties being hauled away.

Here in the keys the damage from last summer’s storms is unavoidable.  The clean up is still underway, and rebuilding is going on all around. Here in Key West there are still three large cranes hauling sunken boats out of the water an loading them on barges.

A few days here, and they we will be off again to the Bahamas.

 

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A Miami sunset from the edge of the Gulf Stream.

 

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Further South!

Time 2330 local
Lat N 25° 25.5′
Lon W 80° 07.1′
Nautical miles from Port Everglades Entrance : 40.7
Nautical miles to Big Pine Key: 85.7

Back on blue water again! We have the perfect sail to shake things down after doing so much to the boat, a day of fairly easy sailing.

We got a late start because the boatyard was clueless on how to get the paperwork processed we need for the Florida tax authorities. What is so strange about this is it’s the same people who processed it so efficiently last year, but the new corporate owners are “improving” things. To the point we had to print out the right form on the boat to take in to get signed because the front desk “isn’t allowed” to keep them anymore. I kept expecting to see the silly army of freshly minted MBA’s from a major consulting firm that have ruined so many businesses.

Oh well, all that frustration is behind us, and was forgotten as we watched the lights of Miami come on in front of a beautiful sunset. The sky glow of the big city is falling behind as we work our way outside the shallow reefs east of Key Biscane. Our sailing is warm and delightful. A bit slow as we are sailing against the flow of the Gulf Stream, but still we are making steady progress.

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Ready! Set! Ready….

We have been hustling along for the past few days getting the last things ready to go.

Karen did a fantastic job getting the decks clean.  Literally on her knees with a scrub brush because as she says, it won’t get this clean again for several months!  The boat looks amazing.

I finished sewing a new storage bag for the dinghy.  It looks and works great.  We have a new sun shade for keeping us cool and comfortable in the tropics that we had a local vendor copy from one he did for another Amel.  It is easy to put up and stow away.  It looks like it is going to make life a lot nicer in the sunnier climates!

Our new batteries from Firefly Energy are installed.  Some new technology on those, we are definitely being the “early adopters” on these.  If they live up to their billing (so far it looks like they will) we will be very happy with them.

Our bow lockers have had their rotted wood replaced, and a bit more inside the chain locker.  It looks great, and is now, quite completely, better than new!

After several weeks of sitting in a boat yard, it seems EVERYTHING on the boat is out of place.  We both spent almost all day yesterday and today putting things away, sorting and stowing. We have our provisions aboard. As far as we know everything is working, and we are ready to go.  In the morning we have to get some paperwork completed at the office, return our rental car, and we are off!

Our destination is about 24 hours away, Big Pine Key in the Florida Keys.  We’ll be visiting friends there, and then heading over to the Bahamas for Christmas.

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A Year Around.

We are (thankfully!) coming to the end of our time tied to the dock doing projects. As always when we are more or less land bound, it isn’t too long before we are itching to get away and enjoy the quiet and privacy of a more remote anchorage. This is especially true when we are in the boat yard where our time is full of busyness and projects.  It is the very opposite of the kind of “back to nature” experience we try to immerse ourselves in.  Unfortunately, it always seems the last few projects  drag out and are the toughest to bring to conclusion. The last deliveries are on the truck, and I have broken out the cattle prods to urge the last contractors on to finish the things they have underway.

After a year of sailing around the Caribbean and the East Coast of the USA we are within a few feet of where we where last year at this time. It was only when I was updating our online track data that it really hit with me that we had just closed that circle.

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Harmonie’s track for 2017

As we finish the last of our major boat projects, Harmonie is ready for another extended time at sea.  All of our systems are fully functional, and ready to go!

We are in the process of deciding where we go next.  We might explore the eastern Caribbean further than we did last year, or we might touch the coast of Central America and see Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, and Panama before transiting the Canal and visiting the Pacific. We don’t have to make a final decision just yet.

A significant input to the decision is the attitude of our insurance company. They have significantly tightened the limitations on boats in hurricane prone areas, not surprising since I am sure they took a beating this past year!

 

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